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21/01/2010 00:36:57
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Hub.Willhub
Posts 916
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Went through a bad pot hole tonight, lost a bottle as it flew out due to the shock, anyway my front wheel is out of true, moves side to side about 2mm, but it's really erratic, other thing is, since I went through it, I notice how I get vibration as the front wheel spins freely when I lift the bike up, feels rougher, and makes abit of a noise. I wanted to go on a 70miler tomorrow but don't know if the wheel is in a fit state.
Thanks
Will.
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21/01/2010 08:54:19
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Ed
Posts 755
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Have you chekd to see whether the quick release skewer is still tight and the wheel is still fully seated within the dropout? That could be the source of your bad vibrations.
Equally it could be (from not very bad at all to very bad indeed):
- your wheel needs truing
- you've bent the QR skewer
- you've bent the front axle
- you've cracked the crown of your forks
Take the front wheel out and check the QR skewer is true and not damaged. While you're at it look 'through' the axle and check it isn't bent. Also feel for any play in the bearings of the wheel.
Check the forks for strain marks/cracks - if they're carbon it should be fairly obvious if the forks are clean.
If you're all good then you probably just need the wheel truing. Its a half hour job for a good mechanic so if you pop it in to a shop this morning you should still be able to get out and about tomorrow.
--
Why not visit my Flickr page?
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21/01/2010 09:10:23
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Crazy Pete
Posts 225
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That was a big 'ole last night Will. Caught a few of us out. I'd take your wheels here...
http://www.bicycledoctor.co.uk/where.html
These guys mend / service mine & they're good at it. £7odd per wheel. Fast service too.
Robbie Duncan is also a Wheeler, so tell him "I was out on a Manchester Wheelers run last night and..." Might get you few brownie points..
Cheers, P.
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21/01/2010 11:25:11
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Hub.Willhub
Posts 916
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Forks are deffo fine, I think the rough feeling I was getting was actually due to the sqewer and the inside of the axel, very very rusty, I'll have to give the sqewer a sand an then oil it. Checked the forks, they look fine.
If I took if to the bicycle doctor you reckon they could do it whilst I wait?
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21/01/2010 11:25:16
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rothers
Posts 577
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Or Learn how to do everything via http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
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21/01/2010 11:31:56
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Hub.Willhub
Posts 916
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I don't want to learn how to true my wheels by trueing my main wheels. I've screwed a wheel up before.
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21/01/2010 12:02:11
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Ed
Posts 755
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Not too good an idea trying to true a modern road wheel without all the correct equipment rothers. A distinct lack of spokes (plus complexities like bladed spokes etc etc etc) make it a tad dangerous and very expensive if you screw it up. You've have to true alot of wheel to make a jig worth while.
Will, you can only ask Bike Doctor nicely. Depends on how busy they are.
--
Why not visit my Flickr page?
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21/01/2010 13:04:48
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.JPG)
James
Posts 240
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Ed wrote:
Not too good an idea trying to true a modern road wheel without all the correct equipment rothers. A distinct lack of spokes (plus complexities like bladed spokes etc etc etc) make it a tad dangerous and very expensive if you screw it up. You've have to true alot of wheel to make a jig worth while.
Will, you can only ask Bike Doctor nicely. Depends on how busy they are.
Bladed spokes make it easier as there's now a visual aid as to whether the spoke is twisting. Truing wheels is not hard at all, and a "purpose built jig" is not required, you could easily use your bike flipped over using (correctly) centred brake calipers to judge rim deflection.
It shouldn't be beyond most people to true a wheel.
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21/01/2010 13:36:10
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Crazy Pete
Posts 225
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James_ wrote:
It shouldn't be beyond most people to true a wheel.
Aye, James, but this is Will we're dealing with here. If he goes wrong he'll never live it down.
Will, Dike Dr, sorry Bike Dr did mine next day pickup. As far as while u wait service goes, it depends how busy they are and whether they want you hangin round the shop freakin out the other customers. 
Worth asking though, worst he can say is no.
P.
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21/01/2010 13:54:07
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Crazy Pete
Posts 225
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. wrote:
I think the rough feeling I was getting was actually due to the sqewer and the inside of the axel, very very rusty,
Will, when the wheel is clamped in the forks, the axle & skewer don't move. The hub rotates around the axle supported by the bearings and cones. (the cones are adjustabe to take up slack as things begin to wear & are locked in place on the axle by the big nuts on the ends). Check the Parktools website for servicing instructions for your make & model of wheel.
If there's no significant play in the hub then I'd leave well enough alone for now, but it sounds as if there is on yours (judging by what you wrote in your 1st post), so get ye bikey doctur to check 'em out for you whilst he's got the wheels in for rimwork.
Most people disassemble everything for polishing & regreasing about every 12mths or so. This helps keep the hub sweet & quiet. Periodic replacement of the ball bearings is recommended too. But that's another lesson...
P.
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21/01/2010 14:04:58
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Crazy Pete
Posts 225
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Q/R skewers are old hat. These are what u want. Opens with 5mm allen key so reasonably chav-proof and you know when your wheels are in snug...
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f%5FProductID=4274&f%5FSupersetQRY=KSkewers&f%5FSortOrderID=%2D1&f%5Fbct=
Or if you want bling ones...
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19642
P.
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21/01/2010 14:13:16
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Hub.Willhub
Posts 916
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I might regrease the insides and put some new ball bearings in myself, I've done it on the rear wheel.
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21/01/2010 14:14:55
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Ed
Posts 755
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James_ wrote:
Bladed spokes make it easier as there's now a visual aid as to whether the spoke is twisting. Truing wheels is not hard at all, and a "purpose built jig" is not required, you could easily use your bike flipped over using (correctly) centred brake calipers to judge rim deflection.
Unfortunately as the strength of a wheel, and how long it will remain true, depends significantly on how round it is, and not just how true it is, proper truing of a wheel requires a proper jig. £7 (or £14) is a small price to pay for a properly strong wheel and the peace of mind that if they c*ck it up they pay for it!
--
Why not visit my Flickr page?
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21/01/2010 14:17:53
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James
Posts 240
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An overpriced jig is still not necessarily.
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21/01/2010 14:41:01
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Ed
Posts 755
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No indeed you can make one yourself, the cost of which will pay for several more professional wheel truings.
A decent set of wheels, properly trued should stay true (barring accidents) for a couple of seasons. If you have to true your wheels considerable more often I would suggest that isn't very well done*...hence proving that either (a) you should buy the correct equipment, or (b) you should get someone who knows what they're doing to do it.
* or you're really fat and should buy some stronger wheels
--
Why not visit my Flickr page?
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21/01/2010 17:42:59
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Ben_S
Posts 282
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possibly the first time ive ever defended will but i dont bother with trueing my own wheels either, ive had a go or two with old wheels - if you do fancy diy i used my turbo as a jig seemed to work fine, its just i suck at adjustments and would sooner let someone who knows what they are doing do it - even if its just for peice of mind
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21/01/2010 18:38:01
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James
Posts 240
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Well it seems Will has fat nipples.
My tool just wasn't big enough.
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21/01/2010 22:17:50
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ant
Posts 742
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probably all that corrosion 
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21/01/2010 23:10:32
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Hub.Willhub
Posts 916
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ant wrote:
probably all that corrosion
More like erosion.
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23/01/2010 17:24:21
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Hub.Willhub
Posts 916
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BicycleDoctor is awesome, the guy took my wheel out when I was there, went and trued it for me, came down, said, I can't get it perfect so no charge 
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